Planting Guidance

Read below for some guidance on planting trees and shrubs.

Site Plan

The first step in a planting project should be identifying your site conditions. Probably the most important is the amount of sunlight and space. Then soil characteristics and goals for your planting would be next. Taking some time to really assess these things can make the difference between a thriving plant and a struggling one. Too often people get enamored by a photo or quality of a  specific plant and forget that their space is all wrong for it. Match a plant to your space for better success.

Plant selection

After assessing your site and your goals, do some research on what plants would be a good match. Keep in mind that if you pick a less common variety of something, you may not be able to find it locally. Shipping plants can work sometimes, but you will not be able to inspect before it arrives which may delay planting if a return must be made. A good local nursery or landscape supply can often help order or locate less common plants.

Plant size

One thing to consider when purchasing plants is the size. Nurseries often measure by the size of the pot, or caliper of the trunk of the tree. Larger sizes cost more, are more difficult to transport, are more challenging to install, and take more inputs to become established. It has been shown that smaller, younger trees often supersede larger ones within a few years because they establish quicker. 

Nursery

Once you have figured out your space and goal requirements its time to find some quality nursery stock. Big box stores and local nurseries can both have good stock, but be sure to inspect what you are buying because there can also be problems present like plant damage from travel, girdling roots, pests, and disease. 

Planting

Lay your new plant (s) out in their predetermined location and walk around. Does it look right? Now that you have the plant in its physical location be sure to check that it has enough room to grow and looks right. It's not too late to readjust the plan! Some reasons you may change the plan at this point:

The space is not large enough

There are overhead wires, canopies, house eaves 

It looks awkward with preexisting landscaping 

Digging

Be sure to consider underground obstacles like septic fields, gas lines, and communication lines before you begin digging. Hole depth is probably the most important step in planting. Do not install your plant below grade! The root flare of the tree should be at, or slightly above grade (about 1-2 inches above is typically fine) . I do not recommend adding anything to the planting hole either, especially not gravel, compost, or foreign soils. When adding things to the planting hole, you may be creating an adverse environment because the surrounding native soil will drain  water and provide a different nutrient profile. By adding amendments to the hole, you can be putting your plant in a pot, causing water drainage problems or circling roots.

Backfill

Use the native soil to pack and backfill the hole. If there is extra, do not put it on top of your plant. Instead, remove the additional soil or use it to taper away from the plant.

Mulch

2-3 inches of mulch is typically a good thing for plants, but avoid putting it right on top of the stem. Mulch will help regulate air and moisture in the soil, but keep in mind that these conditions should be promoting root growth away  from the plant. The type of mulch can also be important. I prefer wood mulches that are irregular in size and not colored. Overly shredded mulches look nice but can sometimes create an impervious surface that pushes water away!

Fertilization

Over fertilization can cause a lot of problems, even death to your young plant. I prefer a slow release fertilizer, and usually do not apply any until the plant has become established (1-2 years after initial install). Many trees and shrubs do not need fertilization at all. If unsure, it is best to take a soil sample and use the results to give an accurate dose. Another option is to very lightly top-dress the area with compost. Good quality finished compost will contain lots of microbes and beneficial organisms that work with roots.

Irrigation

The biggest stressor to a new plant comes from too much, or not enough water. The soil should be allowed to dry out some between waterings. You want to train your new plant roots to go deeper into the soil. If it is constantly wet, the roots will come to the surface for air, then die when the irrigation program stops. There is no magic amount of water to recommend, it is best to probe the soil and determine your own water schedule. It could be every day during a droughty summer, especially for large trees.

Pruning

I typically avoid pruning until the plant is established because it needs every available leaf to photosynthesize. However, damaged or extremely bad structure can be lightly pruned during install and establishment. 

Staking and  animal protection

Stakes can be an important step in keeping a plant from being knocked over by high winds, but they can also cause a lot of long term damage if they are not removed. I usually avoid staking unless the plant will absolutely not stay upright. Deer and rodent protection can be essential. I recommend three stakes placed outside the mulch ring with woven wire fence surrounding. If deer pressure is really high, other deterrents may be necessary like smelly sprays, or motion activated sprinklers.

I hope this post gave some helpful tips and ideas for your next gardening adventure, happy planting!